Replacing Rear Suspension Sway Bar Bushings in Nissan Cedric

I was planning to do the rear suspension service (replace the bushings) and finally this day has come.

Let me say — it's a hassle. You won't likely find the necessary bushings.
Our size is 60 width. Inner diameter 14. Outer diameter 54 for lower arms and 53 respectively for upper ones.
If you can solve the width problem by cutting off excess or, in my case, installing washers, then dealing with a 53 mm diameter is more difficult (I couldn't find such bushings) so I had to get 54 mm ones and remove extra material.

The process of removing excess metal from the bushings for upper arms was done in the following way:
1. I mounted the bushing on a grinding shaft (the diameter there is also 14)
2. Turned it on and took a large grinder to grind around the rotating bushing until it was slightly less than 54 mm (originally the bushings came at 54.4-54.7 mm)

3. After pressing in these 'ground' bushings, I recommend sealing the joints with sealant as this isn't precise turning work and the bushing might rust later on )).
In my case, installing the bushings was done using washers (ideally two 4 mm washers per side), since new blocks are shorter by 8 mm than old ones (60 vs. 52).

For repairs, I used Masuma (ru 430) and Febest (nab 005) bushings. Masuma is more expensive but has better quality according to car owners' reviews.It's recommended to tighten the bushings when the suspension is in a 'car on wheels' state; I just put a jack under the axle and tightened the bolts on the arms.After replacement, my car became less 'wobbly', especially noticeable on uneven roads and during turns. Overall, satisfied with the results. Also replaced rubber inserts on the stabilizer where it attaches to the body. Square rubber inserts at the connection point of the stabilizer to the axle are nearly impossible to find so I just put some rubber in between.After replacement, just a photo.Adding May 2021.
Don't do what's described here — this method doesn't work! Bushings that I installed aren’t suitable for axle loads…the rear end sways when accelerating and returns to center when releasing gas. Redid everything. This time I looked for bushings by original numbers and found them (but only those slightly larger in diameter for lower tie rods) for upper ones respectively, I had to remove about 1 mm so they fit into the original holes of the arms. Result — no more swaying rear end. New bushings are fully filled with rubber inside — the ones I installed earlier were hollow and didn’t withstand axle loads.

Original part number for lower arms bushing 55045v0100

55046v0100
(this one couldn't be found)
I bought from Cedric Y30. Part number
55045v0102 — it fits perfectly on lower arms and for upper ones if I remove 1 mm in diameter.Original part

Я купил от цедрика Y30 мостового. Номер 55045v0102 — он подходит полностью на нижние рычаги и на верхние, если убрать с него 1 мм с диаметра.
Номер род