Hello, dear readers!
Finally got around to changing the transmission oil. I want to note right away that an automatic transmission (AT) was never installed on LS600h(L), nor a CVT. In LS600h(L) is an electro-mechanical transmission which drives like a CVT for regular users but is reliable as a standard hydro-kinetic one. The name I believe fits best — E-CVT.
The L110F transmission model + transfer case LF1A (with Torsen inside) are installed on the LS600h(L).
Here's a simple diagram of this transmission:
For those who want to understand how it works, you can do so here.
I'll say right away — the weakest point here is the dampener, which tends to wear over time (especially after chip tuning). It essentially serves as an ordinary clutch basket with a disc but without an actuator mechanism.
Back to the topic of this article.
The full volume of ATF is 3.6 liters; during replacement, about 3.2 liters drain out, leaving some in the system. Since I planned a full change plus cleaning the entire system, I had to buy 8 liters (two cans of 4 liters each).
So, bought two cans of original Toyota ATF WS. Catalog number: 0888602305. Purchased from a distributor.
Oil is purchased. Next up, the filter and oil pan gasket. Yes, it's expensive but considering the service interval, it’s worth it.
All genuine parts, waited one week for delivery from Vladivostok…
Catalog number of the filter: 35330-30100
. Catalog number of the oil pan gasket: 35168-30020
. Also buy seal rings for drain and fill plugs (the same type), 2 pieces.
Catalog number: 3517830010.
And a sealing ring for the oil filter. Catalog number: 9030126014.
For replacement, you need a long rubber or silicone hose (about 8mm inner diameter), syringe of maximum volume, and a couple of measuring one-liter cups.
Starting the replacement process.
Warm up the car, drive it onto a lift, remove plastic underbody protection, unscrew drain plug and drain all oil.
Next, unscrew the oil pan (which still has quite a bit of oil left) and take it off. Of course, everything wasn’t as easy for me. While loosening the bolts on the oil pan, I stripped one bolt head, adding an hour of work to my task.
Removed the oil pan:
Filled in the center of the remaining bolt stub with soldering tin and began drilling out the screw with a 3.5mm drill bit, gradually increasing the diameter. Then, using a thread extractor (finally something that actually helped), I removed the remaining bolts and threaded the hole using both rough and fine taps.
Yay, the threads are saved!
Removed old filter, cleaned everything thoroughly, especially the surface where the gasket contacts, and installed new filter with new sealing ring. Tightening torque for oil filter bolts — 10Nm.
Then the pan assembly.
Remove magnets, clean them, clean the pan, reinstall magnets.
Install pan back in place along with a new gasket without any sealant. Bolts tightening torque — 7.5 Nm. Screw drain plug back on with new sealing ring. Torque for this bolt — 20Nm. Do not screw back in fill plug yet.
Next, disconnect the return line near the transmission and pour ATF into it using a syringe.
My syringe is 300 cubic centimeters, so I poured for quite some time until ATF started dripping from the fill hole. Then tighten the fill plug with an old gasket and add another 600ml of oil (measured in cups). Put previously prepared hose on metal part of return line (which goes near radiator), put other end into another measuring cup, ask a friend to start the engine. As soon as 600 ml appears in the measuring cup, turn off the engine. Add more 600ml, start the engine again, shut it off once more when another 600ml has drained out. Repeat until clean oil flows out. In my case, I used around two liters for flushing. Once sure that the system is flushed out, disconnect hose from return line and clean off ATF residue on ends of lines before reconnecting them back to original condition.
Start the engine and warm it up until ATF reaches 35-40 degrees Celsius, then loosen fill plug and top up with oil if necessary. In my case, a little extra drained out. Then clean around the fill plug area, install new seal ring on it and tighten it back down with 20Nm torque.
I'm putting the plastic shield back in place and that's it! Ready to go :)
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