Hello everyone)
There will be a lot of photos and I hope it will be useful and interesting to someone
I've been thinking about the swap for years, and to simplify work and avoid unnecessary engine runs, I decided to start with the fuel system, basically everything related to undercarriage work. Firstly, this can already be done as nothing restricts me from doing so now; secondly, later when the engine is in place, I was afraid that there wouldn't be enough strength for a proper quality job
So, this was the look of the fuel tank earlier. You can see the old fuel pump which caused me a lot of discomfort
The tank has been removed, the gasoline drained
Old fuel pump to trash. It made an incredibly loud noise, especially at idle. And when I turned on the turn signal, its sound changed in sync with it)) friends recognized it as a Volga's pump
Tank off, now need to remove the fuel pickup tubes and also the fuel level sensor
My low fuel light wasn't working, I couldn't understand why for a long time. Basically until this moment, it didn't even occur to me that there was a separate system for the arrow and the lamp. Here's how it looks
The reason why my light didn't work was quite simple, contact breakage
two for fuel level and one for low fuel light
After many attempts to solder on a new contact, I managed to do it. It doesn't look great but at least it holds)
for reliability I poured more epoxy over it
Moving on to the fuel pickup tubes. In my model was a m-eu engine with an injector system. There was a fuel pressure regulator on the rack and therefore there was a return line. For 3uz, the fuel pressure regulator is immediately after the pump, so there's no return line. Three options: put the regulator under the hood and leave the original return line, put the regulator in the tank and weld off the return line or put the regulator right after the tank. The third option is the simplest, I chose it.
This was how the fuel pickup tube construction looked earlier
Fitting how to place the pump
Drilling unnecessary parts and installing using gasoline-resistant hose and stainless steel clamps
It's extremely important not to make a mistake with the position of the pump. Its filter must lie at the bottom for better fuel intake.
A few trial installations, and the perfect angle was found.
On electrical side: you can simply connect plus to plus and minus to minus. But by factory standards, there's a capacitor to this pump for 3uz engine
It could be omitted but it's best to include it. It removes noise from the car radio (at least with it, there won't be any noises from the pump), maybe makes start-up smoother (though I think it's definitely not placed for that reason) and most importantly, it reduces the noise of the pump. This is really a very useful thing. After all the noise I had before, I can't even imagine how cool it would be to drive in silence)
So this kind of construction was formed
Decided to spend an extra minute and connect minus to all metal parts, that's the tube and tank
It wasn't for nothing that they do this on new cars, where dealing with explosive substances in large quantities, everything made of metal is definitely grounded. Each flange connected by a wire. Static electricity is a great evil...
The wiring from the tank was filled with epoxy. It says gasoline resistant, hoping it truly is
So such construction came into being
As you can see, fuel comes out under pressure from the tank. Part of it goes to the engine, and another part through a tee to the fuel pressure regulator. When it exceeds 3 bar, the spring rises and releases excess through the standard return line. To the engine under the car runs one single tube
Just there's an issue, looks very sad. Had to buy copper pipe of 8mm and lay a new line
Simultaneously laid plastic gas pipeline on regular ties.
So work on fueling and gassing the engine can be considered complete.
Big thanks for advice Mozgovnet)
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