Good evening to everyone!
It turns out that I write posts with a significant delay, but better late than never.
The problem with the rear circuit of the air conditioner appears in all cars regardless of brand or model. And Toyota-Lexus was no exception. Most owners solve this issue by cutting the rear circuit and installing various types of plugs at the ends of the lines, generally following the best traditions of a collective farmer.
I also faced this problem with the rear circuit. I realized it when my freshly recharged air conditioning system stopped cooling my car. I started looking for leaks. First, I checked the condenser - everything was dry. Then all the lines and compressor under the hood - similarly, everything was dry. The only thing left to check was the rear circuit lines. I lifted the car on a hoist and saw an oily tube near the fuel tank. After cleaning it from dirt and oil, I noticed rust... Immediately understood that I wouldn't be able to fix it in one evening, so I went home early to get some rest and prepare for sleepless nights.
The next evening I lifted the car on a hoist again and reassessed the problem.
On the internet, everyone told me in unison that removing the tube without removing the subframe and fuel tank was impossible, but my habit of not listening to anyone made me verify if it were true.
First, I looked at the schematics for the connection point of the lines:
After finding them on the car and disconnecting:
Front side:
Back side:
Then started disassembling everything that hindered the removal of the tube, namely all plastic underbody shields on the left side as well as the engine dust cover. Additionally, I had to remove thermal protection near the first left catalytic converter - this was the most inconvenient task. After that, I loosened all clamps attaching the line to the body and started disassembling it. First, I slightly moved the entire circuit back and by turning it left and right pulled out its front part. Then the rear one, which was harder due to many bends in the tube. For convenience, I had to loosen the left fuel tank mounting bolt so that it would be easier to turn the tube. A tedious process requiring patience but within an hour and a half, I managed to completely remove it without removing the fuel tank or subframe despite everyone saying it was impossible.
I started looking for leaks after cleaning the oily zones and found four holes... They looked like this:
Fortunately, only the high-pressure tube was damaged; with the low-pressure line, everything is fine. An optimist that I am, I decided to weld them up. Prepared the tubes for welding by thoroughly cleaning and degreasing them.
The first spot is ready:
When welding the third place, I realized my attempt to save the original tube smelled of collective farm work, so I decided to cut off all the rotten parts and replace it with a normal rubber line.
All the part from the rear tank to where it connects under the subframe went to the trash. The only thing I kept was the connection node that would be useful later. Prepared the end section of the tube coming from the front, cleaned it from oxidation, degreased it with solvent and centered it in a threaded fitting:
Welded and ground down the weld seam:
Yes yes, many may say that air conditioning tubes are soldered not welded but it all depends on how sharp your hands are... Well, one part is ready, I can mount it along with the low-pressure line.
Also as painful, I mounted the entire low-pressure line in the end managed to do it. Secured it at the front and back parts, replacing old rubber seals with new ones.
I proceeded to make a replacement for the rotted extension. Welded an 'X' onto the remaining tube and prepared to manufacture the rubber line. Used Galaxy 8mm tubing with extra couple of meters as precaution.
Clamped the hose on this extension and installed it back in place, so I could measure necessary length by sight. After measuring I cut off the excess and returned to clamp a fitting from another side.
The repair line is ready:
It became much easier: installed it alongside the low-pressure line.
Secured under the rear subframe:
Impmediately locked up the dust cover:
And connected it with previously installed part of high pressure line.
Didn't forget about mounting all stock clamps. The rubber section was additionally secured in places to closely follow geometry of low-pressure line. Secured left fuel tank bracket and put back on all previously removed plastic shields and thermal screens.
Assembly complete. Now for testing under pressure, with a positive outcome I'll recharge the refrigerant.
Pressure test passed successfully, no leaks found. Refilled and rejoiced at working air conditioner as well as my high-voltage battery))))
In total, spent 3 evenings on all work. For myself once again understood that there's no point in listening to anyone. If they couldn't do it, doesn’t mean I can't.
Advice for those with similar issues: If your tubes are rotted around the same spot as mine were, you could save a lot of time by not completely dismantling the line. Just carefully cut out the rotten part on-site and remove only that section. Fabricate repair part and install it in its proper place. In such case, one evening should be enough =)
Well, from me this concludes. Hope someone will find help with their car repairs in this article.
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