════════════Frequently Asked Question════════════
Author:Yurran
Source:www.drive2.ru/l/4062246863888232678/
Reason: topic

For several months, I had a W55 manual transmission from an old Crown lying in my garage along with almost all the parts needed for a full replacement of the annoying automatic transmission that was too thirsty and sluggish. I was missing just a few details like a crankshaft bearing, master clutch cylinder, and tail shaft seal. While waiting for these parts to arrive, I searched the entire internet for any information about the swap. With the onset of cold weather, I had given up hope of installing it in my car this year, plus there was absolutely no free time (that's what my job is like). But then suddenly, I got an opportunity to go on a one-week vacation and decided - that's it, I'm going to install it!
I wasn't even bothered by the fact that my garage is very small with an inconvenient pit, which fortunately didn't end up being necessary. One of my friends kindly offered me his garage where there was plenty of room to maneuver.

I had five days and only one pair of hands - all my friends at work were busy during weekdays. But this didn't stop me from wanting to achieve what I wanted. I started around 2 PM and, working alone, by 9 PM I had removed the automatic transmission and everything else. The next day was spent installing the manual transmission. Everything was done solo; my friend who owned the garage only arrived at 4 PM when almost everything was already in place and a helper was needed to bleed the clutch. By evening, I was driving! 8)
Now for the process itself:
First, we remove the parking brake and install the clutch pedal instead. Mine came from the same Crown and didn't quite fit me - it turned out that the cylinder's shaft was too short and I had to make a new longer lever that screws onto the shaft. The brake pedal remained untouched although many people trim the left side of it so it doesn’t interfere, but I haven’t done this yet and don’t find any inconvenience - there is about two centimeters between pedals. All of this was done several days in advance and I drove with a third pedal just like that :) .
Next we remove the selector from the automatic transmission, previously disconnecting it from the linkage on the box.

Also, we disconnect the cable running from the throttle to the transmission.
We take off the muffler so it doesn't get in the way. Technically you need to also unscrew that part which is attached to the manifold but mine absolutely refused to come loose, adding some challenges later on. I started loosening things starting with the catalytic converter.
Next we remove the front end of the driveshaft. For this swap we need a shaft from a 'manual' car since the automatic one is shorter. We drain fluid from the transmission. Then according to plan, there are tubes going to the radiator - and that didn't go well. They refused to unscrew no matter what I tried, so I had to loosen them in all places around both the engine and the box and pull them out gradually. In the end they got ruined. Oh well.

We unscrew all spark plugs and through the window we remove bolts that attach the torque converter to the flywheel, gradually turning the crankshaft by turning a bolt on the pulley at the front of the engine.
Unscrew the lower bolts from the bellhousing and put boards under the automatic transmission so it’s slightly lifted - this lets you remove the rear support. The box then tilts under its own weight and now there is access to the upper bolts.

To reach them we need a special setup:

That's it, nothing holds it now. Also note that you need to disconnect connectors and cables for speedometer; in these connectors you must short some contacts so the computer thinks neutral or reverse gear is engaged. We remove the torque converter.
I won't describe how I later removed the automatic from the boards but it was very difficult!
And here's the 'weapon' on the ground

We remove the flywheel

The thick washer behind the flywheel for a manual isn’t needed.
In the crankshaft we put the primary shaft bearing of the transmission.
Instead of the cover with a window that goes behind the flywheel, we install one without it.
We install the 'manual' flywheel.
We install the clutch basket. Here I faced an issue - how to center align the driven plate so later on the shaft would fit and everything would go back in place. By book, special tools are needed((( . A good eye judgment came in handy here instead of this specialized tool. In short, I barely tightened the basket allowing me to move the disc. As a result, it worked out perfectly on my own! Then I evenly tightened the basket.
Another tricky moment followed! Placing the box on boards, I started placing wooden blocks under it and also slightly jacked up the front of the car so that I could level the transmission with the engine. Watching to make sure the shaft would fit where needed without bending clutch disc petals, I moved the transmission towards the motor until finally everything fitted. Then I tightened the lower bolts on the bellhousing. The rest in reverse order.
I poured oil through the shift mechanism and attached the lever. It turned out very long but was chrome-plated (later I shortened it). This is how it looked:

We connect the clutch hose and fill the reservoir with brake fluid. We bleed the clutch and adjust the pedal.
And that's all! It started working right away :) . The noise level has increased enormously - there’s a hole in the bodywork covered by just rubber strips so exhaust sounds come into the cabin, along with engine whining (I still have an active resonator) and transmission groaning, but it's worth it after the automatic - what a drive now! A proper acceleration attempt revealed this isn't the same old Crown; it has trouble with old Ladas and wouldn’t even try to fit in newer ones. I drove on highway - the transmission is too short for that so fuel consumption increased (about 13-14 liters per 100 km compared to 8-10 on auto), but then again, I wasn't sparing gas :)). Surprised how close gear ratios are between 4th and 5th – if you smoothly upshift from 3rd, you can easily switch directly to 5th.
Recently I made a shorter lever - shortened it by about half - now it's perfect!
Here’s what it looks like

Hose still connects to the one from 9