═════════════════Frequently Asked Question═════════════════

Author: Kms27

Before:

48511-22310 front rod bushings (365076 chassis double)
48674-22120 front spring mount ( TAB-023, RU-005, T26GX810 doubles)
48667-22020 second half of the spring (RU-061, T23GX81R doubles)
48815-22040 stabilizer bushing (T21RX0F, MP-011, 1-01-195 doubles)
48820-22010 link (CLT-11 double IMO the most reliable)
48654-22030 silent block front shock absorber arm (they rarely break )TAB-116, RU-050, T24GX81W duplicates)
45503-29185 steering tie rod (CRT-35 duplicate)
45046-29205 steering arm end (CET-65 duplicate)
45516-22010 steering rack bushing
45517-22031 steering rack bushing 2
-Ball joints only duplicates. I recommend CBT-12.

Rear:

48530-29076 rear struts (341111, 551079 KYB) 341 is softer, 551 firmer.
48710-22240 transverse link. Have the machinist restore the pin and replace the silent block with 1-06-499 polyurethane (or find an alternative which is a hassle)
48730-22010 crossmember bracket (almost not repairable, to fit a bush here is pure hell. And it's even harder to find a replacement) A new one costs 2600 fully. IMHO I would get a used part.
48790-22010 upper lever arm (only as a last resort TAB-038, only if there is no other option) Generally, upper bushes are almost immortal.
48725-22110 bush of longitudinal pull rod (T25LS401, 1-06-110 alternatives)
— Bush of rear knuckle TAB-021RUB (this is not from the 81st model, but it was found through experience to fit.
— Joint bush TAB021z, inner diameter 14mm.
— Ball joint 0120-777
— Eccentric 0129-002 (after minor modifications, they fit like original parts)
The last four positions Febest=( But with all the variety of options, there is no alternative.